IMBB #22: The power of pasta

I believe in the power of pasta.   Yes, that sounds pretty corny, but stop for just a moment and think about it.  At its simplest, a noodle can be nothing more than flour (whether wheat, rice, or, well, pretty much any grain) and water, yet from that simple combination humans have derived a product that can be adapted to satisfy the appetites of a person from almost any culture in the world.  Top a wheat noodle with olive oil, hot pepper, and parmesan -- a condiment almost as simple as the noodle it dresses -- and you have an Italian classic, aglio, olio, e peperoncino.  Now travel halfway round the world, and sauce a rice noodle with tamarind water, fish sauce, bean curd, and a number of other spices and flavours, and you have a noodle dish of amazing complexity and taste, pat thai.

No matter our family background, our culinary roots are Italian, so we have made two lovely pasta dishes for this event.  They are quite different from each other in terms of ingredients, but they share an honesty in their respect for the components and for the eaters.  We had help, though.  Just last week I got my hands on a copy of 100 Ways To Be Pasta: Perfect Pasta Recipes from Gangivecchio, by Wanda and Giovanna Tornabene, a mother and daughter who run a restaurant and inn in Sicily that is said to serve the best food on the island.  After a couple of days, much indecision, and a little analysis of the leftovers in our fridge, we chose the following two dishes:

Bavette with Pistachio Pesto and Shrimp is a bit luxurious.  The ingredients aren't ones we normally have on hand, and it requires a bit of preparation.  Note:  try your damnedest to get high-quality pre-shelled pistachios that are unsalted, or shell them in front of the TV the night before at your leisure.  As we quickly discovered, two hungry, grumpy people shelling pistachios after a long day of work is not good for marital harmony, nor is it good for thumbs -- hers ended up blistered, mine sported a slightly disfigured nail.  The pasta was so good, though, that all grumpiness was forgotten in the creamy rich-tasting sauce and the firm bite of shrimp.  Even the toasted almonds on top, which I thought were a little unnecessary when reading the recipe the first time, were lovely bits of crunch. And all those nuts and seafood are pretty darn healthy!

Pink spaghetti with anchovies and breadcrumbs (see our adapted recipe at the end of this post) is as simple as the pistachio pesto is complex; it's a poor person's food made absolutely delicious by some thoughtful combinations of basic ingredients.  We used mainly leftovers, such as some canned San Marzano tomatoes and a heel of stale baguette.  The addition of my beloved anchovies gives depth to the sauce, and the breadcrumbs are, literally, the crowning glory.  Freshly made and lightly toasted in olive oil, they're golden and crunchy and absolutely delicious.  Apparently they're a frequent substitute for expensive parmigiano reggiano in the kitchens of rural southern Italy. In this dish, they're even better than parmesan, and with every new helping we found ourselves scorning the parmesan in favour of our new-found seasoning.  This meal cost very little, was quick and easy to prepare, and was one of the best pasta dishes we've tried in a long time.

That is the good news, but there are dark forces at work in the world of noodles.  We have reason to believe that, despite the Atkins army's retreat, new threats have emerged:  an Axis of Pasta Evil, if you will.  At least Atkins and his low-carb cult had the courage to admit they hate our pasta, the new enemy hides his real motive behind a "love" of pasta.  I am speaking, of course, about three groups: The Old Spaghetti Factory, Pasta Express, and Food Network Canada.

We live across the street from an Old Spaghetti Factory restaurant. Loving pasta as openly as we do, many people who know us (but don't know us that well) assume we go there often.  The sickly sweet tomato sauce, soft noodles, and odd "potpourri" sauces, made of a mix of spicy meat sauce, creamy clam sauce and mushroom sauce (oh God, I think I just threw up a little in my mouth), ensure that we don't. It's an incredibly popular place that seems to have made pasta into junk food, and treats it with about that much respect.

Then there's Pasta Express (the site takes a while to load, but the propaganda film, er, infomercial, is worth seeing), a weapon of pasta destruction disguised as an Amazing Time-Saving Tool.  You just pour boiling water into it, and watch as your noodles dance like Sea Monkeys on their way to being cooked.  You still have to boil the water.  It still takes 8-10 minutes.  What convenience it's offering, I don't know, but you can pay $20 for it plus shipping and handling, and get its uselessly small little brother thrown in for FREE!  Pure exploitation.

Then there's Food Network Canada.  Back in the "Good Old Days," they used to broadcast Molto Mario, the finest Italian food show ever produced, twice a day.  In September 2004, somebody (I prefer to think of them as an unthinking, unfeeling, cyborg drone) at Food Network Canada pulled the show.  Who did they put in its place?  None other than that human bobblehead doll, Giada de Laurentiis, a person described in a Harper's Magazine article as "eye candy."  Don't get me wrong, her food may be good; in fact, I'm sure it tastes delicious, but her show is little more than contemporary Italian-American cooking, not an in-depth look at the specialty dishes of a particular Italian paesino during a specific season.  The switch from Mario to Giada is emblematic of a more general shift in Food TV programming, from thoughtful yet entertaining fare to "eatertainment."  Let's call it, "Unwrapped-ification" (or should it be "Top Five-ification"?).  No matter: it must stop.

But enough with the rant, let's return to the comforting, starchy arms of pasta.  This experience was fun and, most importantly, very delicious.  My wife and I discovered two great new pasta dishes, and a fantastic pasta cookbook.

As always, the power of the noodle has triumphed.

Pink Spaghetti with Anchovies and Breadcrumbs
adapted from 100 Ways To Be Pasta: Perfect Pasta Recipes From Gangivecchio

6 salt-packed anchovies, washed and filleted
400 g, canned San Marzano tomatoes (approx. 1/2 large can)
100 g, tomato paste
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

454 g spaghetti

Heat the olive oil and anchovies in a large pan over medium heat until the anchovy has dissolved, approximately 10 minutes.  Add tomato paste, stir in thoroughly, and let cook for 2 minutes.  Add tomatoes, and simmer until sauce has reduced to desired consistency.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to boil over high heat. Season generously with salt, and add spaghetti.  Cook until just al dente.  Reserve a half cup of pasta water, then dress the pasta with the condiment.  Use reserved pasta water to loosen sauce, if necessary.

Serve topped with toasted breadcrumbs.

Toasted Breadcrumbs

In a food processor or blender, grind stale bread.

Heat a small frying pan or skillet over medium low heat.  Add a little extra virgin olive oil to pan, add bread crumbs, and stir often until bread is "golden brown."  If breadcrumbs begin to look dry, add more oil to the pan.

Store leftovers in an airtight container.

IMBB # 22 + Noodle

Comments

[Bea at La Tartine Gourmande]

Mmmmm, I would eat this right away. Love the colours of the green against the shrimp. Very nice!!!

[keiko]

Hi Rob - I believe in the power of pasta (or noodles, or rice) too :) This looks really delicious, I'm getting hungry!

[rob]

Thank you both for taking the time to visit.

I love the colour of the pistachio pesto too. I think that shade of bright, vibrant green triggers some sort of primordial response in humans: "I'm tasty and good for you. Eat me."

Keiko, I'm heartened to see you too believe in the power of pasta/noodles/rice. Please spread the word!

[Bea at La Tartine Gourmande]

Rob,

Do you recommend the cookbook then??

Bea

[rob]

Bea, I really like the cookbook, and I would buy it. Just remember, I've only made two of the recipes from it. Of course, I've read through large chunks of it, and really like what I see. Mix that with the Tornabene's reputation, and I'd say this is a good buy for those who love to make and eat pasta.

Does that help?

[Fulano]

Yet another reason to believe in the power of pasta: it digests slowly so it doesn't contribute to the 'carb rollercoaster' Atkins people are always complaining about.

Viva la Pasta!